Gumbo z'herbes

Gumbo z'herbes | NOLA.com

Published: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 12:21 PM Updated: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 4:21 PM

By The Times-Picayune

TP

MORE BELOW (about this recipe and the author)*

Gumbo z'herbes
Makes 8 or more servings

Greens, at least five types (seven or eight is better), one bunch each: collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, green onions, parsley, watercress, spinach, beet tops, radish tops, small head of green cabbage, chicory, carrot tops
2 quarts plus 1/3 cup cool water, divided ½ cup vegetable oil
(2/3) cup flour
1 cup chopped onions
1/2 pound lean baked ham, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 pound Creole (Polish, French garlic) smoked sausage, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 pound lean veal, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large ham bone
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon ground cayenne
2 whole bay leaves
6 whole allspice
2 whole cloves
Boiled rice, for serving

Wash greens thoroughly, taking care to remove all sand; trim off tough stem ends or discolored outer leaves. Place greens in a colander, and rinse under cool running water. Let excess water drain off, then place damp greens in a heavy eight-quart pot. Add one-third cup cool water to pot and place over high heat.

Bring liquid at bottom of pot to a boil, then cover pot tightly, reduce heat to medium, and cook until greens are tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain greens in a colander placed over a large bowl to catch liquid formed during cooking; reserve liquid. Chop greens fine and set aside.

In the same eight-quart pot, washed and well-dried, heat oil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and gradually add flour, stirring constantly. Cook, stirring continuously, until roux is golden brown (the color of peanut butter). Promptly add onions; cook five minutes, stirring well. Thoroughly mix in cubed ham, sausage, veal, and reserved greens cooking liquid.

Gradually add greens, then ham bone, salt, marjoram, thyme, ground peppers, bay leaves, allspice and cloves. Slowly add two quarts cool water, stirring well. Bring to a boil, then slowly simmer for 1 1/4 hours. Serve over rice.

*MORE about this recipe and the author:

Louann Morehouse, who moved to New Orleans in 1987, loves fresh greens, so it's no wonder she's attracted to gumbo z'herbes, which is made with many different greens in the same pot. Her recipe is from Rima and Richard Collin's "The New Orleans Cookbook, " published in 1975 by Knopf. (More gumbo recipes and stories.)

Morehouse, a Florida native, first prepared the traditional Lenten dish about 17 years ago for Christmas Eve, when she and her husband, Robin, and their children, Caitlin and Lucas, who were very young, lived in Nova Scotia. The gumbo has since become one of the family's all-occasion favorites.

Over the years, the Lakeview resident has put her stamp on the original recipe given below. For example, in place of the veal she substitutes additional baked ham. Also, she omits the marjoram and tinkers with the amounts of other spices used.

She often substitutes chicken stock for the water and adds green bell peppers and celery to the roux along with the onions.

She always puts turnip greens and either collards or mustards in the gumbo. But when she's rushed or can't find fresh greens, she resorts to frozen ones, which she adds after the fresh greens are cooked. For the best tasting gumbo z'herbes, she advises never substituting frozen greens for more than one-third of the total greens used.

"I love greens and always like to eat something extremely nutritious, " says Morehouse, who is executive director of the Tennessee Williams Festival. "The gumbo is delicious and is actually better the day after it's made. And it goes really well with cornbread."

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Crawfish Etoufee

Holly Clegg's Crawfish Etoufee recipe packs on the protein

Published: Friday, March 18, 2011, 5:00 AM

By The Times-Picayune

Holly Clegg is a Baton Rouge resident and author of more than a dozen cookbooks, including the Trim & Terrific series with more than 1 million copies in print. She contributes monthly healthful recipes to The Times-Picayune and NOLA.com.

Holly Clegg

Craving crawfish? Scrumptious, easy and healthier, Holly's version of Crawfish Etouffee will quickly become a “go-to” dinner recipe on those busy nights. Serve with or without rice (white or brown).

Makes 4 (1-cup) servings

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1/2 cup chopped green bell pepper
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 cup fat-free chicken broth
• 1 tablespoon paprika
• 1 pound crawfish tails, rinsed and drained
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1 bunch green onions, stems only, finely chopped

In large nonstick skillet coated with nonstick cooking spray, combine oil and flour. Cook over medium heat until light brown, about 6–8 minutes, stirring constantly. Add onion, green pepper and garlic. Sauté until tender, about 5 minutes.

Gradually add broth and stir until thickened. Add paprika and crawfish. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and cook for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season to taste.

Add green onions and cook another few minutes before serving.

Read more 'Trim & Terrific' recipes at www.hollyclegg.com.

Nutritional information per 1-cup serving

• Calories: 220
• Fat 9g
• Saturated Fat 1g
• Sodium 217mg
• Carbohydrate 13g
• Dietary Fiber4g
• Sugars 4g
• Protein 22g

© 2011 NOLA.com. All rights reserved.

Cabbage Gumbo

Cabbage Gumbo | NOLA.com

Published: Saturday, May 01, 2010, 10:46 AM Updated: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 12:00 PM

By The Times-Picayune

(Editor's note: The following was taken from "The Picayune's Creole Cook Book," circa 1901 and content may be dated)

Cabbage Gumbo
Gombo Choux

1 Large Head of Cabbage (green and white mixed)
1 Round Steak
2 Large slices of Lean Ham
2 Pounds of Creole Sausage (About 6 to a Pound)
1 Pod of Cayenne Pepper, without the Seeds
1 Pint of Milk
1 Tablespoonful of Lard
Salt and Black Pepper and Cayenne to Taste

Shred the cabbage and wash each leaf separately and thoroughly to avoid insects. Then chop the entire head very fine, into pieces about half the size of dice. Cut the steak or brisket into small squares, also the ham, and fry in the deepest kettle you have, putting the meat into the pot when the lard is very hot. When it begins to brown, add a chopped onion and the sausage, and then add the chopped cabbage, stirring and pouring in enough water to prevent it from burning. Throw in the red pepper pod and a dash of Cayenne, and salt to taste. Add a little black pepper. Stir often and allow the ingredients to cook well, gradually adding, if necessary, a little water, and stirring frequently to prevent burning. When thoroughly cooked, make a cream sauce as follows: Take one pint of new milk and two tablespoonfuls of flour and mix thoroughly, so as not to be lumpy. Stir this into the gumbo while boiling, and continue stirring for five minutes. Serve with boiled rice. If it is not possible to procure milk, almost the same effect may be attained by mixing the flour in cold water of the same measurement and stirring in as already given. The gumbo must not be allowed to stand on the fire after the flour has been boiled on it for five minutes, as it will burn.

© 2011 NOLA.com. All rights reserved.

Green or Herb Gumbo

Green or Herb Gumbo

Published: Saturday, May 01, 2010, 10:44 AM Updated: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 12:00 PM

By The Times-Picayune

(Editor's note: The following was taken from "The Picayune's Creole Cook Book," circa 1901 and content may be dated)

Green or Herb Gumbo
Gombo aux Herbes

A Veal Brisket 1 Large Slice of Lean Ham Equal Parts of the Leaves of Young Cabbage, Radish, Turnips. Mustard, Spinach, Watercress, Parsley and Green Onion 1 Large White Onion 1/2 Red Pepper Pod 1 Bay Leaf 1 Sprig of Thyme 1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram 1 Clove 9 Allspice Cayenne to Taste

Soak and wash the leaves thoroughly, being careful to wash each leaf separately, to be sure there lurk no insects in the folds or ridges. Then trim by taking off all the coarse midrib of the leaves, which will make the gumbo taste harsh and unpalatable. Boil the leaves together for about two hours and then parboil by adding a teaspoonful of cooking soda.

Strain and chop very fine, being careful to save the water in which they were boiled. Cut the brisket of veal and the sliced ham into small pieces and dredge with black pepper and salt, and chop one large white or red onion. Put a heaping teaspoonful of lard into a deep frying pan, and when hot, add the chopped veal and the ham.

Cover and let it simmer for about ten minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Then add the chopped onion and a little sprig of parsley chopped fine. When it comes to a rich brown, add the greens, and when these are browned, pour over four quarts of the water in which the leaves have been boiled. Throw in the marjoram and the red pepper pod and the clove and allspice, mashed fine.

Set it back on the stove and let it boil for about one hour longer, adding the Cayenne or "hot pepper," and you will have a regular gumbo peculiar to New Orleans alone. Serve with boiled rice.

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Shrimp Gumbo Filé

Shrimp Gumbo Filé

Published: Saturday, May 01, 2010, 10:42 AM Updated: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 12:00 PM

By The Times-Picayune

(Editor's note: The following was taken from "The Picayune's Creole Cook Book," circa 1901 and content may be dated)

Lake shrimp are always used in making this gumbo, the river shrimp being too small and delicate. Purchase always about 100 shrimp, or a small basketful, for there are always smaller shrimp in the pile which, when cooked, amount to little or nothing.

In making Shrimp Gumbo, either "File" or Okra may be used in the combination, but it must be borne in mind that while the "File" is frequently used, shrimp are far more delicious for gumbo purposes when used with Okra. The shrimp should always be scalded or boiled before putting in the gumbo.

Shrimp Gumbo File
Gombo aux Chevrettes

50 Fine Lake Shrimps
2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor
1 Quart of Hot Water
1 Large White Onion
1 Bay Leaf
3 Sprigs of Parsley
1 Sprig of Thyme
1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter
1 Tablespoonful of Flour
Salt and Black Pepper to Taste

Shell the shrimp, season highly and scald in boiling water. Put the lard into a kettle, and, when hot, add the flour, making a brown roux. When quite brown, without a semblance of burning, add the chopped onion and the parsley. Fry these, and when brown, add the chopped bay leaf; pour in the hot oyster liquor and the hot water, or use the carefully strained liquor in which the shrimp have been boiled. When it comes to a good boil and about five minutes before serving, add the shrimp to the gumbo and take off the stove. Then add to the boiling hot liquid about two tablespoonfuls of the "File," thickening just as desired. Season again with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately with boiled rice.

Related topics: gumbo

Oyster Gumbo

Oyster Gumbo: "Oyster Gumbo
Published: Saturday, May 01, 2010, 10:40 AM Updated: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 12:00 PM
By The Times-Picayune
(Editor's note: The following was taken from 'The Picayune's Creole Cook Book,' circa 1901 and content may be dated)
Oyster Gumbo
Gombo aux Huitres
4 Dozen Oysters
2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor
1 Teaspoonful of Lard or Butter
1 Quart of Hot Water
2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour
1 Large White Onion
Parsley, Thyme and Bay Leaf
Salt and Pepper to Taste.
Put the lard into a kettle, and when hot add the flour, making a brown roux. When quite brown without burning, add the chopped onions and parsley. Fry these, and when brown, add the chopped bay leaf; pour in the hot oyster liquor and then add the hot water.
When it comes to a good boil, just before serving, add the oysters which have been well drained, without pouring water over them, however. Cook for about three minutes longer and take off the stove and stir gradually two tablespoonfuls of File into the boiling hot gumbo.
Have the tureen ready in a 'bain-marie,' or hot water bath, and pour in the gumbo and cover. Bring to the table immediately and serve with boiled rice, allowing about six or eight oysters to each person.
© 2011 NOLA.com. All rights reserved."

Crab Gumbo

Crab Gumbo

Published: Saturday, May 01, 2010, 10:39 AM Updated: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 12:00 PM

By The Times-Picayune

(Editor's note: The following was taken from "The Picayune's Creole Cook Book," circa 1901 and content may be dated)

Crab Gumbo
Gombo aux Crabes

1 Dozen Hard-Shell or Soft-Shell Crabs.
1 Onion
6 Large Fresh Tomatoes
2 Pints of Okra, or Fifty Counted
1/2 Pod of Red Pepper, without the Seeds
1 Bay Leaf
1 Sprig of Thyme or Parsley
1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Two Level Spoons of Butter
Salt and Cayenne to Taste

This is a great fast-day or "maigre" dish with the Creoles. Hard or soft-shell crabs may be used, though more frequently the former. as they are always procurable and far cheaper than the latter article, which is considered a luxury. Crabs are always sold alive.

Scald the hard-shell crabs and clean according to recipe already given, "taking off the dead man's fingers" and the spongy substances and being careful to see that the sandbags on the under part are removed. Then cut off the claws, crack and cut the body of the crab in quarters, season nicely with salt and pepper.

Put the lard into the pot, and when hot throw in the bodies and claws. Cover closely, and, after five or ten minutes, add the skinned tomatoes, chopped onions, thyme and parsley, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. After five minutes add the okra, sliced fine, and when well browned, without the semblance of scorching, add the bay leaf, chopped fine, and the Juice of the tomatoes.

Pour over about two quarts and a half of boiling water, set on a slow fire and let it simmer well for about an hour, having thrown in the pepper pod. When nearly ready to serve, season according to taste with Cayenne and added salt; pour into a tureen and serve with boiled rice.

This quantity will allow two soft-shell crabs or two bodies of hard-shell crabs to each person.

© 2011 NOLA.com. All rights reserved.

Okra Gumbo

Okra Gumbo

Published: Saturday, May 01, 2010, 10:37 AM Updated: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 12:00 PM

By The Times-Picayune

(Editor's note: The following was taken from "The Picayune's Creole Cook Book," circa 1901 and content may be dated)

Okra Gumbo
Gombo Fevi

1 Chicken
1 Onion
6 Large Fresh Tomatoes
2 Pints of Okra, or Fifty Counted.
1/2 Pod of Red Pepper, without the Seeds
2 Large Slices of Ham
1 Bay Leaf
1 Sprig of Thyme or Parsley
1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Two Level Spoons of Butter
Salt and Cayenne to Taste

Clean and cut up the chicken. Cut the ham into small squares or dice and chop the onions, parsley and thyme. Skin the tomatoes, and chop fine, saving the juice. Wash and stem the okra and slice into thin layers of one-half inch each. Put the lard or butter into the soup kettle, and when hot add the chicken and the ham.

Cover closely and let it simmer for about ten minutes. Then add the chopped onions, parsley, thyme and tomatoes, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. Then add the okra, and, when well browned, add the juice of the tomatoes, which imparts a superior flavor.

The okra is very delicate and is liable to scorch quickly If not stirred frequently. For this reason many Creole cooks fry the okra separately in a frying pan, seasoning with the pepper, cayenne and salt, and then add to the chicken. But equally good results may be obtained by simply adding the okra to the frying chicken, and watching constantly to prevent scorching.

The least taste of a "scorch" spoils the flavor of the gumbo. When well fried and browned, add the boiling water (about three quarts) and set on a very slow fire, letting it simmer gently for about an hour longer. Serve hot, with nicely boiled rice. The remains of turkey may be utilized in the gumbo, instead of using chicken.

In families where it is not possible to procure a fowl, use a round steak of beef or veal, instead of the chicken, and chop fine. But it must always be borne in mind that the Chicken Gumbo has the best flavor. Much, however, depends upon the seasoning, which is always high, and thus cooked, the Meat Gumbo makes a most nutritious and excellent dish.

© 2011 NOLA.com. All rights reserved.

Turkey Gumbo

Published: Saturday, May 01, 2010, 10:33 AM Updated: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 12:00 PM

By The Times-Picayune

(Editor's note: The following was taken from "The Picayune's Creole Cook Book," circa 1901 and content may be dated)

Turkey Gumbo
Gombo de Dinde

The Remains of a Turkey
1/2 Pound of Lean Ham
2 Tablespoons of butter or 1 of Lard
1 Bay Leaf
3 Sprigs of Parsley
3 Dozen Oysters
1 Large Onion
1 Sprig of Thyme
2 Quarts of Oyster Water
1/2 Pod of Red Pepper, Without the Seeds Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste

Nothing is forever lost in a well-regulated Creole Kitchen. Where turkey is served one day, the remains or "left-over" are saved and made into that most excellent dish - a Turkey Gumbo. It is made in the same manner as Chicken Gumbo, only instead of the chicken, the turkey meat, black and white, that is left over, is stripped from the bones and carcass. Chop fine and add to the hot lard, and then put in the ham, cut fine into dice shapes. Proceed exactly as in the recipe above, only after adding the boiling water throw in the bones and carcass of the turkey. At the proper time remove the carcass and bones, add the oysters, and then remove the pot and "File" the Gumbo. Serve with boiled rice. Turkey Gumbo, when made from the remains of wild turkey, has a delicious flavor.

© 2011 NOLA.com. All rights reserved.

Squirrel or Rabbit Gumbo

Squirrel or Rabbit Gumbo

Published: Saturday, May 01, 2010, 10:31 AM Updated: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 12:00 PM

By The Times-Picayune

(Editor's note: The following was taken from "The Picayune's Creole Cook Book," circa 1901 and content may be dated)

Squirrel or Rabbit Gumbo
Gumbo d'Ecureil ou de Lapin

1 Fine Squirrel or Rabbit
2 Slices or 1/2 Pound of Lean Ham
3 Sprigs of Parsley
1 Sprig of Thyme
I Bay Leaf
1 Large Onion
3 Dozen Oysters
2 Quarts of Oyster Water
1/2 Pod of Red Pepper, without the Seed
A Dash of Cayenne
Salt and pepper to Taste

Skin, clean and cut up the squirrel or rabbit, as for a fricassee. Dredge well with salt and black pepper. Cut the ham into dice shapes, and chop the onion parsley and thyme very fine. Put the lard or butter into a deep stew pot and when hot, put in the squirrel or rabbit.

Cover closely and fry for about eight or ten minutes. Then proceed in exactly the same manner as for Chicken Gumbo: add the "File" at the time indicated, and serve with boiled Louisiana rice.

© 2011 NOLA.com. All rights reserved.

Gumbo Filé

Gumbo Filé

Published: Saturday, May 01, 2010, 10:22 AM     Updated: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 12:00 PM

 By The Times-Picayune 

*See note at end about Filé powder.

To make a good "Gumbo File" use the following ingredients:

1  Large Tender Chicken

2  Large Slices or 1/2 Pound Lean Ham

2  Tablespoonfuls of Butter or 1 of Lard

1  Bay Leaf

3  Sprigs of Parsley

3  Dozen Oysters

1  Large Onion

1  Sprig of Thyme

2  Quarts of Oyster Water

2  Quarts of Boiling Water

1  Half Pod of Red Pepper, without the Seed Salt and Pepper and Cayenne to taste.

Clean and cut up the chicken as for a fricassee. Dredge with salt and black pepper, judging according to taste. Cut the ham into dice shapes and chop the onion, parsley and thyme very fine. Put the lard or butter into the soup kettle or deep stewing pot, and when hot, put in the ham and chicken.

Cover closely and fry for about five or ten minutes. Then add the onion and parsley and thyme, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. When nicely browned add the boiling water and throw in the oyster stock, which has been thoroughly heated. Add the bay leaf chopped very fine, and the pepper pod, cut in two, and set the Gumbo back to simmer for about an hour longer. When nearly ready to serve dinner and while the Gumbo is boiling add the fresh oysters.

Let the Gumbo remain on the stove for about three minutes longer, and then remove the pot from the fire. Have ready the tureens, set in a "bainmarle." or hot water bath, for once the File is added the Gumbo must never be warmed over.

Take two tablespoonfuls of the File and drop gradually into the pot of boiling hot Gumbo, stirring slowly to mix thoroughly; pour into the tureen or tureens, if there should be a second demand and serve with boiled rice. (See recipe.) The rice, it should be remarked, must be boiled so that the grains stand quite apart, and brought t o the table in a separate dish, covered. Serve about two spoonfuls of rice to one plate of Gumbo.

The above recipe is for a family of six. Increased quantities in proportion as required. Never boil the Gumbo with the rice, and never add the File while the Gumbo is on the fire, as boiling after the File is added tends to make the Gumbo stringy and unfit for use, else the File is precipitated to the bottom of the pot, which is equally to be avoided.

Where families cannot afford a fowl, a good Gumbo may be made by substituting the round of the beef for the chicken.

*NOTE:   (Editor's note: The following was taken from "The Picayune's Creole Cook Book," circa 1901 and content may be dated)

First, it will be necessary to explain here, for the benefit of many, that "File" is a powder, first manufactured by tribes of Choctaw Indians in Louisiana, from the young and tender leaves of the sassafras.

The Indian squaws gathered the leaves and spread them on a stone mortar to dry. When thoroughly dried, they pounded them into a fine powder, passed them through a hair sieve, and then brought the File to New Orleans to sell, coming twice a week to the famous French Market, from the reservation set aside for their home on Bayou Lacombe, near Mandeville. La.

The Indians used sassafras leaves and the sassafras for many medicinal purposes, and the Creoles, quick to discover and apply, found the possibilities of the powdered sassafras, or "Filé," and originated the well-known dish. "Gumbo Filé."

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Origins of Creole gumbo

Origins of Creole gumbo

Published: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 10:19 AM     Updated: Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 11:06 AM

 By The Times-Picayune 

(Editor's note: The following was taken from "The Picayune's Creole Cook Book," circa 1901 and content may be dated)

TP

Gumbo, of all unique dishes of the New Orleans cuisine, represents a most distinctive type of the evolution of good cookery under the hands of the famous Creole cuisinieres of old New Orleans.

Indeed, the word "evolution" fails to apply when speaking of Gumbo, for it is an original conception, a something "sui generis" in cooking, peculiar to this ancient Creole city alone, and to the manor born.

With equal ability the older Creole cooks saw the possibilities of original and delicious combinations in making Gumbo, and hence we have many varieties, till the occult science of making a good "Gombo a la Creole" seems too fine an inheritance of gastronomic lore to remain forever hidden away in the cuisines of this old Southern metropolis.

The following recipes, gathered with care from the best housekeepers of New Orleans, have been handed down from generation to generation. They need only to be tried to prove their perfect claim to the admiration of the many distinguished visitors and epicures who have paid tribute to our Creole Gumbo.

• Gumbo File
• Squirrel or Rabbit gumbo
• Turkey gumbo
• Okra gumbo
• Crab gumbo
• Oyster gumbo
• Shrimp gumbo file
• Green or herb gumbo
• Cabbage gumbo

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